The Wayfaring Gals do Portugal Part Two: Porto!

The next day we were off to Porto, which is about four hours north of Lisbon. Porto is known for its wine and beautiful bridges. We took a train there, and had relatively uneventful ride. When we arrived, we called an Uber to our our B&B, which was in a great location in the city; many of the popular sites within easy walking distance. What I like about Porto is that we were able to walk everywhere we went. The bus station was near where we stayed, so we only took one Uber ride the few days we spent in Porto. I do wish we had at least one more day there. I’d stay an extra day if I could go back. I recommend at least four days in Porto.

That evening we went to check out Porto Cathedral, which is right in the center of the city, and one of its oldest monuments (it was completed in 1737). The gothic cloisters, tile work and murals are amazing. Portugal is famous for its ceramic tile work, which is called Azulejo; even though the tiles are ornamental they function as a form of temperature control. Homes even have beautiful colored tiles on them. We came to the cathedral late so we had to go back the next day to climb the steps of the tower. I love all the walking I get to do when I’m traveling since I don’t have access to a car when I’m overseas. Neither of us likes to drive in another country so we walk as much as we can on vacation. 

We continued exploring Porto, and stopped at Sao Benton Train Station, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The station contains beautiful tile work painted by Jorge Colaco, which were completed in 1916. The murals depict rural scenes from people from various regions in Portugal. Definitely check out the train station when you’re in Porto. Next we happened upon Praca da Liberdade, which is Porto’s main square, and it connects old town with the modern part. We took a stroll there during the golden hour. That evening we went to the Riverwalk, or Ribeira, to have some delicious wine and enjoy the sunset while people watching.  

The next day we visited Clergios Tower, a baroque church built in 1750 that has a long bell tower you can climb (do it, it’s good exercise). It’s a different style than Porto Cathedral so if you like seeing gorgeous old churches, I recommend you visit, otherwise I prefer Porto Cathedral. You start your visit inside of the church, which is beautiful; you can walk on the balcony and get some great views. There are also more great views if you walk up the bell tower, but be prepared for a lot of steps, and they get narrow as you near the top. Definitely wear comfortable shoes in Porto. 

Afterwards, my sister and I walked across the famous Dom Luis I Bridge; from the top part to the bottom part. It’s especially beautiful during the golden hour. We walked across the bridge to Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar (which is actually in Vila Nova de Gaia the town next to Porto), a monastery that is no longer in use. We booked a Seven Bridges Cruise to see the different bridges in the area. They’re touristy but worth seeing. The tour is usually an hour cruise along the Douro River, and starts in the Ribeira’s quay. The cruise starts with the Luis I bridge then you see Dom Henrique, Maria Pia (designed by Gustave Eiffel), Sao Joao, Freixo, and then Arrabida bridges. Our ticket included a port tasting, which was all the way on the other side of the bridge so it was quite a hike for a sip of port at Porto Cruz. I recommend just doing a separate tasting since the one included was lame.

After walking a ways to try the Port, we did happen to come across a place, Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau that sells codfish cakes stuffed with cheese. The place has an organist playing and is modeled after Porto’s famous bookstore so it was a nice find for us.

We bought tickets in advance to Livraria Lello, which is a famous book store in Porto with notoriously long lines. We didn’t know our ticket gave us priority to skip the line, so we waited (only half an hour since we came later in the day). The money for the ticket can be used towards a book. I used my credit to buy a special edition illustrated version of the Wizard of Oz book that was exclusive to Livraria Lello (it has the name of the book store on the cover). 

The bookstore is said to have inspired JK Rowling’s description of Hogwarts in Harry Potter. Rowling lived in Porto for a couple of years. Livraria Lello is considered one of the most beautiful book stores in the world, and is the oldest one in Portugal (opened in 1881). Thankfully, when we went in October it was not that busy, and we could take our time. The main staircase with its red stairs is just amazing. Pictures or words cannot do this place justice; you have to experience it in person. I definitely recommend you purchase a ticket in advance in order to avoid the long lines, and go when it opens or in the evening closer to closing time. 

Afterwards we walked by Igreja do Carmo to see a church with azulejo tiles on the exterior. We picked up food and some groceries at a local market to take back to our Air B&B. We had an early start the next day due to taking a day tour to the Douro Valley.

We were up early for a pickup for a Douro Valley Wine Tasting Tour, booked from Viator. This area is the third oldest wine region in the world. The hour and a half drive to the valley went by quickly due to the beautiful views. We also had a small group of people which was nice so we were able to take a van. We visited a small winery, Quinta do Jalloto with some breathtaking views. The wine we tried was nice, and they also make their own olive oil, which was delicious. The owner was nice and gracious, and kind even when a heavyset guest broke a chair. Afterwards, we took a nice river cruise on the Douro River, which was just amazing. On the the cruise you can see the wine estates, or quinoas cling along vertical slopes dropping down to the river. It makes for wondrous scenery.

After the cruise, we had a nice lunch that included more wine and tasty food. We shared plates of chicken, fish, rice, potatoes and salad. We had a nice view of the Douro River from the restaurant. After lunch, we visited a winery specializing in Port, Quinta de Santa Eufemia, where we tasted a wide variety of Port, from light to dark. Port is definitely a dessert wine, and does come in dry, semi-dry and white varieties. Only wines from Portugal are allowed to be labeled “Port.” If you are in Porto, you can either drive to the Douro Valley (roads are steep and narrow so no thank you for me), or take a day tour like we did, or stay even longer to enjoy the marvelous area. It was a magical day for us! Since the group got along so well we decided to go out to eat in Porto, ending another great day.

The next day we had an an amazing breakfast at the Hungry Biker (we went more than once there since we were obsessed, and walked down to the Ribeira for one last look at the riverwalk. We walked around some more, exploring before we had to leave. We took a bus to Sintra that afternoon. Our Air B&B had the most uncomfortable bed that was causing me back pain so I wouldn’t recommend the place we stayed at even though it was in a good central location. It is difficult to find a hotel in Porto since there are few, so many people have to stay at Air B&Bs. I wish we had at least another day in Porto since it was such an amazing place that we both loved. I understand why my friend that lives in Lisbon described it as magical.

If you like our Facebook page, there are videos from the trip posted that you can check out as well. I also update the Instagram WayfaringGal page (which has more photos from the trip) with new posts. Thank you for reading, and comments and feedback are always welcome since that is how we learn and grow.